Meat mooncakes at a time-honored bakery in Suzhou (Photo/Suzhou Daily)

The mooncake is a traditional dessert that celebrates the Mid-Autumn Festival. The full moon symbolizes harmony and reunion of the family, and so does a round mooncake. There are two major styles of mooncakes: Cantonese and Suzhou-style.

Suzhou-style mooncakes originated more than a thousand years ago, and are known for their layers of flaky dough and generous allotment of fillings. Suzhou-style mooncakes feature both sweet and salty types. Common sweet fillings include roast black sesame, five kernels, and candied fruits. Salty Suzhou-style mooncakes are served hot and usually filled with pork mince.

Although no one really knows when mooncakes with pork were first introduced, they have become so popular around the Yangtze River delta region that major cities in the area claim they are indigenous. This curious little round pastry is made from a flaky wrap that encloses a ground pork filling made with aromatic seasonings tasting almost like a meatball.

For many expats, it is refreshing to taste a mooncake with a salty filling. Even though there are many sweet mooncakes made with a pastry wrapper, the pork filling creates a different quality to the pastry.

Before it shows up, an irresistible scent has assailed your nostrils. One bite will unveil the meat inside. Many locals spend a lot of time lining up to buy meat mooncakes at local bakeries.