Sweet recipes refined to meet nostalgic demands

By ZHU XINGXIN in Taiyuan and ZHANG XIAOMIN (China Daily)

Updated: 2025-02-13

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Workers make yuanxiao at a Jinci osmanthus yuanxiao workshop in Taiyuan, Shanxi province, on Monday. [Photo by Zhu Xingxin/China Daily]

As Lantern Festival fell on Wednesday, Han Fuyuan, a 72-year-old provincial-level intangible cultural heritage inheritor from Taiyuan, Shanxi province, got engaged with a bustling tradition. The days leading up to the festival are always the busiest for him.

"Since resuming work after Chinese New Year on Jan 31, we have been producing approximately 90,000 yuanxiao (sweet glutinous rice balls) daily to meet festival demand," said Han, who has 50 years of experience crafting the delicacy.

At the Jinci osmanthus yuanxiao workshop in Taiyuan's Jinyuan district, three towering stone milling machines, each standing 3 meters high, grind glutinous rice into fine flour.

"Southern China has tangyuan, while the north has yuanxiao. Jinci osmanthus yuanxiao is considered a representative of northern yuanxiao, cherished for the unique quality of rice grown in Jinci town and our adherence to traditional craftsmanship," Han explained, deftly preparing the filling while sharing the story behind his family's signature treat.

It's a tradition for people to eat tangyuan or yuanxiao during Lantern Festival. Yuanxiao is chewier, while tangyuan is tender.

Making authentic Jinci osmanthus yuanxiao is no simple task. It requires more than a dozen meticulous steps. After preparing the filling, the yuanxiao is rolled and coated with water four to five times, layer by layer, until it forms a firm, round ball.

"This technique is what makes Jinci osmanthus yuanxiao unique," Han said.

For the traditional filling, walnuts, sesame seeds and peanuts are stir-fried and peeled, then mixed with melted malt sugar, white sugar, rock sugar, natural rose jam and osmanthus jam. The mixture is pressed into molds, dried and cut into cubes before being rolled into the final product.

In addition to the classic osmanthus and rose flavor, the workshop has introduced modern variations to appeal to younger consumers, including tangy sea buckthorn, lowcalorie xylitol and black sesame yuanxiao.

According to Han, these innovations have been well received, adding a contemporary twist to the centuries-old tradition.

"Customers come in person or call to place orders. We work from 5 am until late at night every day," Han said, highlighting the overwhelming demand.

With a history dating back to the Han Dynasty (206 BC-AD 220), Jinci osmanthus yuanxiao is deeply rooted in local culture.

In December 2023, its production technique was officially listed as a provincial-level intangible cultural heritage in Shanxi.

For local residents like Guo Zhihong, Jinci osmanthus yuanxiao is more than just a festive treat – it's a taste of nostalgia.

"Yuanxiao symbolizes reunion, happiness and the sweetness of Chinese New Year," he said. "Every year before Lantern Festival, I come here to buy them. It brings back memories of my childhood, when ordinary families used to make yuanxiao at home."

Han Fuyuan has passed down his craft to his son, Han Wei, the fifth-generation inheritor of Jinci osmanthus yuanxiao.

"The filling recipe has been refined over generations to suit the public's tastes," said Han Wei, 36. "We also use traditional stone mills to grind the rice, preserving its nutrients and achieving that soft, sticky and sweet texture."

To promote this cultural heritage, Han Wei opened an experiential store on Taiyuan's iconic Zhonglou street. The store not only sells yuanxiao, but also allows visitors to experience the traditional production technique firsthand.

He has also expanded sales through online channels, projecting sales of more than 3 million yuanxiao this year.

The business has created jobs and increased incomes for the community. Currently, more than 30 workshops and 500 people in Jinyuan district are engaged in yuanxiao production, generating an annual output value of 50 million yuan ($6.8 million).