Canal near Ruiguang Pagoda Suzhou 1996. [Photo by Bruce Connolly/chinadaily.com.cn]
Walking around, my first impression was how much quieter Suzhou felt, despite its over 2,500 years of history when compared to the rush and bustle of Shanghai 100 kilometers back down the railway line. One of the oldest cities in the area, Suzhou in 1996 felt like a place where people seemed to have time to talk while restaurants and even the buses were reasonably quiet. However this was not always the case. Around AD 100 during the Eastern Han Dynasty, Suzhou was one of the world's 10 largest cities, totally dwarfing Shanghai, due to migration from northern China, It was famed for its range of the finest Chinese silks and, by the mid-19th century, Chinese language publishing. In recent years it again has grown rapidly into economically one of China's most prosperous cities, becoming a center for many high-tech companies. It ranks amongst the country's top tourist destinations, something I was witnessing in its fledgling days.
Finding a garden restaurant where diners could sit in individual bamboo structures, I had a cold drink while starting to work out a strategy. It was so relaxing and tempting to remain there all day - a recurrent Suzhou theme!
