Freshly made crab roe buns. [Photo provided to en.nantong.gov.cn]

While the city was still asleep, steam rose from the kitchen behind the Sihailou Restaurant in Rugao, Nantong, on the eleventh morning of the Chinese New Year.

As the steamer lids were lifted, the aroma of crab filled the air, and trays of golden and shiny crab roe buns were brought to the table. This is the place where the intangible cultural heritage of Rugao crab roe buns is passed down, a beloved spot that evokes nostalgic flavors for locals who have lived away from home.

From selecting and processing ingredients to crafting the finished product, it involves over a dozen meticulous steps, with the master chefs at Sihailou Restaurant overseeing every process each day.

Picking crabs is an essential step, and simmering the crab oil is a craft that reflects the harmony between the chefs and the flame. Only when the oil completely locks in the freshness of the crab can this seasonal "golden sauce" be used for mixing the filling.

The making of the filling is sophisticated, and the wrapping of the buns must not be taken lightly. Evenly distributing the rich filling into the thin dough, akin to a cicada's wings, while maintaining the elegant appearance of the bun is no easy feat.

The restaurant's top chef, with nearly 18 years of experience, said, "We have always used traditional fermented dough to retain the most authentic and pure local flavor. While crab roe buns are a common delicacy nowadays, our patrons can still taste the hand-kneaded resilience of our buns."

In the fast-paced present, Sihailou Restaurant still preserves traditional craftsmanship. The intensity of hand-kneading dough and the intuitive judgment in adding alkali reflect the chefs' profound understanding of natural fermentation.

"Temperature, time, and the choice of flour are all extremely important. Every day requires adjustments based on different temperatures and humidity. This fermentation process is complex, with high technical requirements, but we will keep carrying it on," said Sun Linhai, manager of the restaurant. He believes that some delicacies cannot be rushed.